Please note - these instructions apply to natural skin vellums only! Fitting a plastic head is much simpler. Basically, all you need to make sure of when fitting a plastic head is that you apply equal tension gradually, all round the circumference of the head, tightening up hooks evenly and symmetrically.

1 - The first thing to do is strip the instrument—and you might find this a good opportunity to thoroughly clean all plated parts and remove all dust and dirt from inside the hoop.

2 - When the hoop is ready to receive the new vellum, soak the unstretched skin in clean cold water until it is soft and can be rolled-about five to ten minutes should prove sufficient-then lay the wet skin flat on a soft clean towel or cloth and roll it up so that the towel or cloth absorbs all superfluous moisture.

3 - Lay the skin face side up (a rough side andlor a name stamp will be inside the banjo and thus facing down) on the spread-out towel or cloth, seeing there are no wrinkles in evidence. Place the vellum-wire on the vellum (leaving an even surplus all round) and start to fold the vellum outside the wire over the wire, placing the banjo bezel in position as you go, to hold it. Then lift the vellum and bezel together and place on the banjo hoop.

4 - Gently ease into place and then fit six tension hooks in position-one each side of the tailpiece, one each side of the neck, one the centre of each side of the hoop. Now that the vellum and bezel are held in their proper position, gently ease the vellum up under the bezel; see that no folds or wrinkles appear where the vellum goes over the edge of the hoop. A well-fitted vellum should also have no folds in evidence where it laps around the vellum wire. You should now slightly press down in the centre of the vellum to allow a little “play” for subsequent tightening.

5 - Now slightly tighten each tension book, seeing that the bezel goes down evenly all around the hoop.

6 - After re-checking to see that no folds or wrinkles have appeared in the vellum under the bezel, tighten the tension hooks so that the vellum is evenly stretched across the hoop. The bezel should be a little higher on the hoop than it will be when the banjo is later assembled.

7 - Lay the components aside in a cool dry place for not less than twenty-four hours. If it can be left longer, so much the better. Under no circumstances should artificial heat be applied.

8 - When the vellum is thoroughly dry-and here it should be emphasised that the exposed part of the vellum will dry quickly but the part under the bezel will take considerably longer - undo the tension hooks and remove the vellum from the hoop. If there are any signs of stickiness when removing the vellum, it indicates dampness and the vellum should be put on one side to allow for further drying. Trim off the surplus skin and sprinkle a little french chalk on the top on the hoop where the vellum rests.

9 - Replace the vellum on the banjo hoop and fit all the tension books and nuts, taking great care to apply tension evenly all round the hoop. Note that if tension is applied to the vellum whilst there are any signs of dampness, the skin will split.

The correct tension of a vellum to give best results is for it to be as “tight as a board”, just giving to hard pressure of the thumb. If in doubt leave some give in it and consult an experienced banjoist. After a new vellum is fitted it will stretch slightly for a few days. Proper tension may be maintained by a quarter turn on each nut until the skin has its proper give.